Friday 16 November 2018

Hurtigruten ship 'Nordkapp'




We boarded on Saturday evening and after a buffet dinner, sailed at 10.30pm. Everyone was keen to check out their cabins and we were pleased with ours - midship and a bit larger than average, it was still small but beautifully fitted out and quite cosy.

I must say that everywhere we've stayed, the heating has at times been far too hot for us. We are continually piling on the warm outdoor clothing, then peeling off as soon as we're indoors. Just opening the front of your coat doesn't work either and you're soon perspiring in 21C degree heat.

Anyhow - shipboard life has been fine. These Hurtigruten ships daily ply the eastern Norwegian coast up and down from Bergen stopping at 34 ports along their 6 day trip (return 12 days). They are primarily freight and some vehicles and stop daily at each of these rather remote settlements up and into the Arctic Circle. Some stops are only for 15 minutes and often these are during the night. One stop per day is usually longer 3-4 hours and sightseeing excursions can be taken. Of course nowadays the trip is popular so comfortable cabins are provided for a capacity of 691 passengers. No entertainment is laid on, so you bring your books, tablets, knitting, etc., and entertain yourselves. We do get a talk daily with subjects like the Northern Lights, King Crabs, Excursions, etc.. Meals have been very good, with a lot of Norwegian Coastal foods provided. Breakfast and lunch are buffet, but evening meal is a 3 course set menu with starched linen napkins. Always beautiful.


First stop for us was on Sunday at Alesund for 3 hours. We had a walk around town but there was not much movement being Sunday. Met a man walking his Border Collie, so of course we had to greet him and his dog and talk about Charley. The town itself was rebuilt, after a fire, in Art Deco architecture and there are some beautiful buildings remaining. However modern Architects have ignored this beauty and now there are ugly concrete, steel and glass buildings. What a shame - if only they could have continued the Art Deco theme, Alesund would be stunning.





The third largest town in Norway - Trondheim - was our next stop and we took an excursion via bus around the town and up to the very impressive 11th century Nidaros Cathedral dedicated to St Olav. There is a large University here and from a high lookout there is a wonderful view of the city.








Next day was Bodo, and finally Peter had something to interest him with the very, very impressive Aircraft Museum. They had civilian and military planes from many eras and many countries with a good few from World War 2. Both the extensive modern building and the quantity of planes displayed was quite amazing.









Tromso was next and although we arrived at 2.15pm the sun had already departed and so we wandered the vibrant, bright streets of this lovely place as though it was night-time. Found a few souvenirs and other items to buy including some absolutely beautiful Norwegian knitting wool (only 2 balls!).





Peter now calls me 'Michelin Woman'
Finally on our last full day we took an excursion to the North Cape - the northern most point of the European Continent. Again at the Cape there is an impressive building with excellent facilities. Of course everyone heads through the building and out again to take photos at The Globe which had been erected in 1977 to mark the spot. We were lucky in that the weather (apart from bitterly cold wind) was quite clear, so after photos were taken we retreated inside the building to view a 20 minute film of the area in all seasons, learn about local birds, view the tiny but beautiful St Johannes Chapel and see the room commemorating the King of Thailand's visit in 1907. Immediately afterwards we looked out to find the weather had changed completely. Low cloud, fog and misty rain! We were lucky.

Back in Honningsvag on our way to the ship, there was a souvenir shop (of course!). All through our Norwegian stops, we've tried to buy a large (flyable) Norwegian flag. No luck - none available till next summer. However finally we managed to get a Norwegian Vimpel (a long pennant-shaped flag), so Peter is happy!

On our last evening on board, we managed to change our dinner seating and so were able to sit with friends we had made on the voyage. Later we sat in the Explorers Lounge for an hour or so chatting before bed time.

We had been anxiously waiting each evening for the Northern Lights to appear, and on the last evening - just as we'd settled in bed  - we heard an announcement that 'a little bit had appeared'. Peter wasn't moving, but I wrapped up in my thick red coat and padded to the windows in the deck foyer. Not a glimmer was to be seen so sadly back to bed.  We disembark tomorrow morning at Kirkenes to continue our trip down through Finland where we hope to have better luck with the Northern Lights.

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